Sunday, June 28, 2009

daybreak is early enough

"FuckFuckFuck..... FUCK....... FARRRRRRKKKK!!!!!!! FUCKING FUCKING FUCK WHAT A FUCKING CUNT OF A FUCKING IDEA"

It was the desperation and disbelief, more than the frustration in his voice which made me think that our current predicament was unexpected.

I had first stepped on deck not more than 15 minutes prior and met the bloke at the wheel less than 10 minutes before that. Up until then I had been sitting on the wharf in my car at 4am every day for the best part of a month, waiting for this chance. A sign on the front bumper read "qualified deckie ready to go". We had moved to town after the season started and now all I could do was wait for someone to sleep in, fuck up, crack the shits or turn up pissed straight from the nighty. The word was there were no second chances in this game, no written warnings, you were there when the boat sailed or it left without you and I was the first waiting in line. By the time a ute finally pulled up and a voice out of the darkness  drawled " you right to go?" there were another four blokes sitting behind me.

In less than half an hour my relief at finally getting on deck was being tempered by the skipper's raging diatribe against the sea. We sat in a narrow channel with reef all around flaring an effervescent white in the darkness. Faintly illuminated by the spotlight, great foaming walls roared lumpenly past, port and starboard, before reforming bruised and swollen over our immediate past path. The channel ahead was indistinct and looking like it would close out any moment. The only gauge I had of our immediate danger was the brief time I'd spent on a jet boat, which worked the reef hard up in big surf. I'd rationalized then that your fear does not always correlate with the real danger at hand, so the the best policy is to stay cool and take your cues from those around you and then at least you won't look stupid if nothing happens. So here I was, peering out into the night thru a small humming clearview with a complete stranger, salt and spray obscuring the full gravitas of the situation. The only thing I knew for sure was that the surf was much bigger than he had anticipated and that he had been here before and was not very happy about it. Sometimes ignorance is a blessing.

" OHH FUCK! JESUS, FUCKEN FUCK HANG ON"

Suddenly we were racing at full throttle, headlong at a feathering breaker. We crashed wildly through the lip, and were momentarily weightless, engine shuddering and roaring as the prop cavitated before we pitched into the blackness off the back of the wave with a bone jarring thud. It felt like we would fall for ever. The third in the set was the biggest by far but we were almost clear by then and it closed the channel behind us completely.

Once we hit the deep water he backed off the throttle and told me how last season, his first as skipper, he had tried to take the same passage. Straight off the Point Moore lighthouse and just outside the marina, the south passage cuts out 20 minutes of steaming time if you are heading Greenough way. It's a complicated and dangerous zigzag through the reef, even in daylight and is often more of an idea than a reality; really little more than a way to get out to the back of the break on a surfboard, or windsurfer, once the southerly kicked in. But if you want to get to your pots at first light it's passage earned you a little more time in bed.

Last time he only made it over the first wave before the second broke square on the wheelhouse. It blew out all the glass and tore the bulkhead clean off the cabin, taking the sounder, radio and safety gear with it. The engine stalled and the water which had filled the boat to the gunnels poured back down into the forward hold making it sit nose down in a breaking sea. To complicate things my predecessor on deck had leapt up off the bench seat when told to hang on and braced himself on the handrail, facing the oncoming waves. When the window shattered the glass shards cut him badly, severing arteries in one of his hands. Somehow the boat started again and they scraped over two more waves before limping, bleeding and battered around to the shipping channel and back into the marina.

We didn't take the channel again after that and after a couple of days he got sick of steaming into southerly chop each morning and we took the pots north to the seagrass country.





9 comments:

Dr Mad Fish said...

Great story! This must be Geraldton? I spent some time up there on a yacht and I am familiar with the narrow, shallow channel (for a 38'steel yacht anyway)

sarah toa said...

Far out ... 20 minutes ... worth that? Love the language C.Q. I can hear that man's cursing loud and clear!

Spencer Collins said...

Nice one CQ... You are really good at this writing stuff, I always enjoy your posts.

Sarah tells me that you guys had an eyeball (that's old CB language...a kind of cross cultural/technological reference) the other day, it's great to find out that you are actually a real person after all.

C.Q Walker said...

Thanks all for the feedback.

Michelle, it is Geraldton but you couldn't sail a yacht through this particular spot. Jet boats and windsurfers are the only 'safe' vessels for this passage. You are right about the Abrohlos too, it's not a great spot to have a keel. While I am kind of reluctant to post it, i found a youtube clip with aerial footage of the Batavia site and the Wallabi group of Islands. Relucant because the voice over is shocking and also because it is a place and time in my life I desperately want to capture in writing. The place is so unique and special I fear whatever I do will be an injustice, but that's the whole creative neuroses dilemma right there isn't it.

Another dilemma is capturing in writing the breadth and depth of meaning squashed into one four letter word. I guess fisherman have a pretty common dialect hey Sarah. Glad you understood.

Radios!! Spencer I've got a ticket to drive one somewhere. Used to make my day at the islands when you could hear the Japanese tuna boats over the horizon on the edge of the shelf or better still the blokes with illegal russian military scramblers chatting about..... where they were or were not catching, if fisheries or customs was on the way, who won the footy or how Boof flew a chopper full of hookers out after killing the pig but got so drug fucked he couldn't get it up. ( Spent a little time on a boat with one so i am only making it up a little , don't recall them talking about the footy much ;) )

Eyeballing then usually involved a boat roaring up and the skipper yelling at you to fuck off and stop following him around, this was his fucking ground and go find your fucking own. It was completely irrelevant whether you had been or not and more a function of how long you'd had the boat. The old blokes went the young ones, a sort of rite of passage.The funny thing was most of the time it was a pantomine of fist shaking, throat cutting gestures and raised index fingers as you couldn't hear a fucking thing over the noise of two diesels.

So..... thankfully i got a more civilized response from Sarah and i feel more real some days than others, but for better or worse here's the Batavia link....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfrzS0W5PgA

Apologies in advance for... the voice over, max cramer who could probably answer a few questions about that other chest of gold, and the placement of the tacky skull. Incidently the jetty just after the skull is the one I'd hobble down each morning in the darkness before jumping in the tinny to get out to the mooring.

sarah toa said...

Fantastic rave!
Methinks you need to get stuck into the Abrohlos narrative C.Q.

Samuel Beckett said 'To write is to fail.' So you're in good company.

That lush, shining vision will probably never look the same on paper for you. But it may well shine brilliantly for a reader!
And has anyone else written this kind of stuff about the Abrohlos? I haven't heard of any.
Go on.

sontag said...

I was holding my breath while reading this. Truly.

It's good stuff....I was right there and quite frankly, I wanted to get off.

Probably would've drowned though, hey?

Thanks for your post.

Dr Mad Fish said...

Yeah, I am with Sarah Toa. I reckon you should write it. I only know a bit about Geraldton but bought a stack of whale's teeth from Max Cramer when I was there (in the days when I was making money from doing scrimshaw) I remember he was a local legend, a bit dodgy but I like those old guys. This is such an interesting sub-culture and I really enjoyed my time hanging around it.
I will check out the link.

Juice said...

Sarah I would have thought you have read Tim Winton's, Dirt Music. It touches on the culture surrounding cray fishing in the north and the tomfoolery that C.Q raves on about. Sure was an interesting time worth developing on, if you were there that is. There needs to be more writen about this coast to at least help justify its existence. Who ever coined the saying "wild west" proabably had no idea of it's significance out here.
Love this piece, rich with charater and excitment.

C.Q Walker said...

Funny, I was only reading Winton's piece on fugliness in last weeks Weekend Oz mag extracted from a new book "Smalltown".

"Maybe this is why you encounter communities that are economically wealthy but barely civil, towns that for all their industrial success, are so diminished emotionally and socially they feel like failing enterprises".

You are right Juice, more needs to be written but it's not the place that needs to justify itself but those that occupy the landscape.

There is a line on worth in WInton's piece that rings out....

" is measured in volume for the money "

and from beer to boats this holds true.


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